CoffeeWalk: Hvar

July 12, 2025 · Hvar, Croatia

I’m staying halfway between the Hvar Old Town and a beach I knew I wanted to visit. Having no car means always positioning myself for the number 11 bus (aka walking). But not having been here before I managed to book a place about as far up the GD hill as you can go. Everywhere is uphill both ways because of all the hills and valleys. Good job me. Well it’s lovely anyway. CoffeeWalk with me up the rest of the hill, then over and down to a beach cove at Pokonji Dol, far from traffic. The only sounds are the cicadas and the buzz of chitchat.

A steep street climbing toward a rocky hillside in Hvar

Španjola Fortress above the red-roofed buildings of Hvar — The view from my apartment. Španjola Fortress in the distance.

A view from the apartment across Hvar rooftops to the sea and distant islands

A long outdoor stairway descending between stone walls and houses — Gotta go down the stairs for the coffee… then up and over the hill on the other side to get to the beach.

A takeaway coffee held above a rocky path between dry-stone walls — I can do all things through coffee. Now, having climbed up the hill, we are on to the second downhill stretch. A bit more rugged than my sandals can handle. In the town of Split many of the sidewalks are paved in slippery white stones. And I wondered, “Why?! Why!?” Every time my feet slipped out from under me. They are slippery AF. And now I suspect they are simply the available building material taken from the mountainside. These white stones lining the path are just as slippery in gravel and rock form.

A steep rocky path bordered by dry-stone walls on a hillside above the sea

Pokonji Dol Beach in a turquoise cove below a rocky hillside path — CoffeeWalk goal…

A hand-painted sign advertising massages in the shade of olive trees — I love the idea, but the price seemed a little high to me… maybe because I didn’t have the cash on me. Sour grapes.

A view from a beach chair across the pebble beach and blue water at Pokonji Dol — My perch for the day, at Pokonji Dol Beach.

Stacy relaxing on a beach chair beneath a palm tree at Pokonji Dol Beach — Staying as long as possible to gather the energy for the return trip.

Beach loungers and umbrellas on the pebble beach beneath the rocky hillside — The walk home starts with scrambling to the top of the hill… sigh.

Swimmers on a concrete platform with the Pokonji Dol Lighthouse offshore — Beaches here in Croatia can include pebbles, sand, rock, or cement platforms with a pool ladder.

The Pokonji Dol Lighthouse on a small island across clear blue water — The Pokonji Dol Lighthouse on the distant island. There’s a sign in the beach bar that warns not to swim out to the island. IDK why. It is probably farther away than it looks. You can trust I won’t be swimming out to it, but this is where I leave you. It is time now for me to climb home. Slow and steady.

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