CoffeeWalk: Larnaca Old Town and Waterfront

May 19, 2025 · Larnaca, Cyprus

#CoffeeWalk #1 in Larnaca, Cyprus. We are here for a few days and if you don't know where it is on a map, I forgive you because I didn't know either, until recently. Cyprus has had an interesting and ancient history as a Mediterranean island. Today, it's its own republic after having been a British colony and changing hands a number of times before that. There's a section that is bordered off as a sort of Turkish occupation in the upper part of the country. And I think many people here have a strong connection to Greece. It also happens to be about 150 miles as the crow flies to Lebanon. There is a tremendous diversity of people here and therefore amazing food.

Cyprus is part of the EU, but it gives a developing nation kind of vibe in infrastructure and in attitude. For example, we rented a car for a day and the rental agent told us to return it by driving to the departures drop-off area at the airport and wait for a guy in a vest to show up to collect it. She said, 'You can park there for 15 or 20 minutes. Don't worry. The police can't do anything.' Anyway, here's my first walk around town.

A sunny Larnaca old-town street lined with workshops, cafés, and colorful doors — Larnaca is an interesting mix of refurbishing but still local. These shops are cute bars and cafés next to furniture repair and machine shops, etc. A place we had dinner on our first night used to be an auto mechanic shop. The city told the owner that his business was too loud and too dirty now for the old town they are trying to preserve, and he would have to close it, so he remade it into a restaurant and cafe. And it was so delicious. This story illustrates the city's efforts to remake its old town.

A café terrace in a quiet whitewashed square in Larnaca — Cute cafe. I would have had coffee here but some influencers were inside filming their content and sucking the charm out of the place. Tomorrow…

A leafy tree and restored stone building reflected in a café window — A newly made-over town square with a refurbished historical building.

A hand holding a flat white in front of a historic stone building — “Flat white” is how you get a more coffee-forward bev if you insist on milk. This one was great.

A white lion statue beside Larnaca's palm-lined seaside promenade — Lovely seaside promenade with a pier that juts out into clear waters.

A view of the sea and sandy beach from a lounge chair — Oh, woops. Took a break from walking. Down the way there is a massage tent. A 30-minute foot massage will set you back €30. Slightly more expensive than Puerto Vallarta, for those keeping score, and like 10x more expensive than Cambodia. This is how I convert currency in my head. Based on massage units.

Larnaca Fort seen from the sandy beach — Former castle/fort/jail depending on which century.

The stone courtyard of Larnaca Fort overlooking the sea — I read that by the 1800s this fort was not super useful. Mainly just firing the cannons to salute passing ships.

A mosque minaret seen through the iron gate of Larnaca Fort — I wasn't sure what the neighboring building was until the call to prayer started. Very haunting to listen to while also wandering this fort space.

A weathered medieval tombstone carved with a human figure — Tombstone from the Middle Ages.

A Larnaca street seen through a narrow stone window in the fort — Peeking out from the fort.

Blue sea and sky framed by a rough stone opening in Larnaca Fort

Larnaca's waterfront promenade viewed from the fort — Promenade to the right.

The sandy beach and waterfront viewed from Larnaca Fort — Beach to the left.

The neighboring mosque's minaret rising above trees and buildings — The minaret. The mosque is hidden behind the lush garden.

A weathered Larnaca building with cracked plaster, shutters, and exposed supports — Charm and dilapidation (Aaron calls it my favorite architectural style). This is just a block in from the beach. While things are pretty and restored along the waterfront and in parts of the old town, you don't have to go far to see the city crumbling or being remade in a cheap, modern-day boxy style.

A narrow old-town street passing beneath a weathered stone arch

Two street cats resting beside a building in Larnaca — Cyprus has a ton of street cats. These two are some of the better-looking ones. The majority look pretty crusty. They all seem pretty chill though.

The Church of Saint Lazarus and its square at dusk — The Church of St. Lazarus. If you know your Bible or your saints, you might be impressed with this church, which was built upon Lazarus' tomb. They have some of his bones in a relic on display. You can see the interior pictures in my second post from Larnaca.

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