CoffeeWalk: Split, Early Morning

July 18, 2025 · Split, Croatia

There is something so glorious about getting up early and going for a walk in the old town of a European city. I never would have thought I would be an early riser. But it is so rewarding. The streets are quiet and empty. The town is hitting reset and shopkeepers are preparing for their day. It is the calm before the tourist storm that is summer. I always find I much prefer the quiet wander over the crowded one. I found this truth to be evident in Venice, Rome, Madrid and now Split. And if you’re lucky, you hit the sweet spot of too early for most people, but a coffee shop is open. It is the kind of walk where you really should know how to say “good morning” in the local language because you are only encountering the locals. Joggers or dog walkers or business owners and service people. It is sometimes the only real moment of the day in the old town as so many have now been given over completely to tourism. I know it is hard to fathom getting up early on your vacation, but if you can muster the energy or if you are already jet lagged in such a way that it is super convenient to get out early, do it! The town will feel like yours alone. Later in the day, these streets will be filled with people and energy. An entirely different vibe. But for now, you can CoffeeWalk with me through the early morning streets of Split.

A sculptural black street fountain in front of a tall stone wall and wooden door in Split

An almost empty stone-paved street lined with historic buildings in early morning light

A black-and-white cat sitting among pigeons in a quiet square beside a stone palace tower — This is Pedro Psps. You can find him on Google Maps.

A weathered stone building with shuttered windows beside an old clock and bell tower

An empty old-town square surrounded by stone buildings with green shutters

Stacy smiling during her early morning walk through the stone streets of Split

The empty stone Peristyle of Diocletian’s Palace with its arches and bell tower under a blue sky — The retirement palace of Roman emperor Diocletian. The only Roman emperor to abdicate. Midday this place will be packed with people.

Stone steps rising through an arched brick-and-stone passage beneath Diocletian’s Palace — The basement, if you will, of the Roman palace. Game of Thrones shot some scenes here. Dany’s dragons lived here (in Meereen).

Empty café tables in a stone courtyard with laundry hanging from balconies overhead

A hand holding a takeaway coffee cup in front of a graffiti-covered wall in Split — And of course, coffee!

A narrow stone courtyard with steep exterior stairs, shuttered windows, and potted plants — So many quiet corners.

A cat beneath empty restaurant tables on a quiet stone street as a man watches from across the lane — It is a universal truth that a cat will ignore those who seek its attention. Maybe later, when the restaurant opens, you can return and slip her a little bite of meat. Bribes go a long way.

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